Stacy Allison, Mountaineer and businesswoman. Stacy was the first American woman to successfully summit Mt. Everest.
After starting mountaineering in her early 20s, she summited Mt. McKinley within her first year of climbing. She also took part in the first women’s ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal and was the first American woman to climb the highest peak in the Pamir Range in Russia.
A storm caused her expedition to turn back on her first attempt at Mt. Everest. "I felt like I had unfinished business on the mountain. I felt like I had to go through that failure in order to realize that 'Hey, look: Your self-worth isn't built upon this accomplishment. It's through years of setting little goals and accomplishing those little goals. It's not just built on this one thing.' So there were some things that I had to learn."
For her second attempt, her mindset had shifted. "I didn't care whether I was first, second or third. It was that I had chosen this as my goal for the challenge of climbing itself, not for what rewards would come from reaching that goal.” Stacy successfully climbed Mt. Everest 29 days into her second expedition, reaching the summit on September 29, 1988.
"You can't rest on your laurels. Now Everest is a stepping stone, just like every other goal in my life. So it was easy for me to come off of that mountain, both literally and figuratively, and set new goals.”
After Everest, Stacy led a successful expedition to K2, the world’s second highest mountain, often considered the most difficult mountain to climb on Earth.
LA Times & Sweeney, Photograph via 1859 Magazine